Surprising Scenery & Skiing in Slovenia

Written by Nathan Miller, Lumi’s Guest Communications Manager

I joined Lumi Experiences in September 2025 just as our winter season was ramping up. I’m a long-time resident of Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula – where it snows for 6+ months of the year – and was eager to join a few Lumi trips and see what winter is like across the pond. How would my hometown trails stack up against some of Europe’s top ski destinations? Are the Aperol Spritzes from trailside huts as good as people say?

After chatting with skiers from across the country at this year’s Birkie Expo, I set off on a nearly two-week trip across Central Europe to Slovenia, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. I’ll summarize the rest in future blog posts this summer. For now, I want to focus on the most surprising location I visited on my trip: Slovenia.

Lumi’s Slovenia Sight-Skiing trip is billed as a relaxed alternative to trips that include Worldloppet races or World Cup or Championship events. However, beyond the sight-skiing aspect, I wasn’t really sure what Slovenia itself was actually like. After all, it’s hard to really know a place without seeing it for yourself. 

The skiing and scenery in Slovenia are both surprisingly beautiful

Let’s put one thing to rest right away: the scenery in Slovenia is stunning. The towering Julian Alps surround the village of Rateče where Lumi’s group stays for the week, with snow-covered fields and historic Kozolci (hay drying racks) dotting the landscape. Just 15 minutes after I arrived, trip leader Matija invited me along on a quick errand to the Planica Nordic Centre where I was further blown away by their massive ski jumps - host of the 2023 Planica Nordic World Championships, craggy mountain spires illuminated by alpenglow, and immaculately groomed trails that stretched up and down the valley. For someone whose time in Slovenia began less than two hours prior, this was quite the introduction.

The Planica Nordic Centre is as iconic as the mountains that surround it. 

Nearby to the sleepy village of Rateče lies Kranjska Gora, a comparatively busy town that was full of life, even late in the evening. My hometown in Michigan doesn’t have nearly the charm that either of these two communities do despite being of comparable size. European villages are attractive in ways that most American towns cannot rival, even ignoring the mountains and world-class trails within walking distance of ‘downtown.’

Exploring the bustling town of Kranjska Gora, Slovenia

Although Lumi’s group stays in Slovenia for the entire week, Rateče is only a stone’s throw away from the Italian border. There’s even a triple point with Austria just up the road – and nearly 700m uphill. While all eyes were on Val di Fiemme for this winter’s Olympics and the storied Marcialonga, Lumi skiers were busy enjoying some of Italy’s lesser-known but still fantastic trails. Skiing the Saisera Trails was a treat, and not just because we shared delicious Bombardinos afterwards. Being able to ski right up to the base of mountains isn’t something I can do regularly in the Midwest, particularly on trails that are just intermediate in difficulty. I soaked up the moment.

Skiing the Saisera Trails just over the border in Italy

With 16 km in the bag, we headed off for lunch at Monte Lussari, a tiny village located atop a mountain serviced by a gondola in winter. The views from the top were spectacular. Matija helpfully pointed out notable locations in all directions, knowledge he’s gained by living in the area his entire life. Later in the evening, he shared even more tidbits about Slovenian culture as the group enjoyed a filling meal at a local restaurant in Rateče. I particularly fell in love with my brick-sized dessert, Prekmurska Gibanica, which has multiple layers of chopped walnuts, sliced apple, ricotta, poppy seeds, phyllo dough, and powdered sugar. Although my list of favorite Slovenia dishes is admittedly quite short, this one sits squarely at the top.

Monte Lussari sits atop a mountain about 1 km above the valley below

The narrow streets of Monte Lussari are barely passable in winter

On my way out of Slovenia I stopped back into Planica to ski the trails. It took me a minute to find the right trailhead (where’s Matija when you need him!), but once I found my way I headed uphill to check out the storied Tamar Hut at the end of the valley. As I reached the top the hut came into view, surrounded on three sides by towering mountain walls. What a way to start the day! As if seeing it come into view once wasn’t enough, the trail doubled back two more times so I could take in the scene again and again. Show-offs. Just as I kicked off my skis for a quick break, an accordionist struck up a tune to really set the scene. They sure know how to treat a guy right around here.

Skiing to the Tamar Hut at Planica

Sledding with Lumi's group in Slovenia

After I left the group would go on to visit Lake Bled, try out the biathlon, sled down a scenic mountain trail, and ski even more trails. It sounded like a blast. For a trip that shies away from the limelight and excitement of big races, there’s still plenty of fun to be had throughout. Plus, it’s one of Lumi’s most affordable trips and a perfect option for moderate skiers – skate or classic.

No trip to Slovenia would be complete without a visit to Lake Bled

Trying out the biathlon with the help of local experts

If you’ve been wondering what Slovenia is all about, Lumi’s Slovenia Sight-Skiing trip is a great intro to cross country skiing in Europe. We still have limited space on next winter’s trip. Reach out to reservations@lumiesperiences.com today for a detailed itinerary or to reserve your spot. We look forward to hearing from you!